Don’t ask me how, or why, but I was in Queens this week. I had a big gap between activities and a friend suggested we try to find some off-site breakfast. Great idea.
So great, in fact, I ended up having one of my favorite dining experiences in New York, which made me feel like I was at the old ‘The Beef’ from the hit TV Show ‘The Bear’. They didn’t just stick to meatball sandwiches, and I’m so glad.
A quick search on The Infatuation turned up ‘Comfortland’ as one of the best breakfast spots in the city. These increasingly commercialized food guides aren’t always on the money, but I’ve found the editorial staff of The Infatuation to keep it pretty tight with rec’s and they’re certainly better than Google.
What I got was a meal where I laughed, I stuffed face and I felt more a part of New York than I have in a long time. No white gloves here!
Comfortland: A Fun Excursion
The Michelin Guide classes three star food as “worth traveling long distances for” like flying from New York to Tokyo just to experience the food. This is not that, but damn well worth a subway ride. Comfortland is like the best version of all day stoner delights with a really thoughtful chef-y twist and indulgence at the front.
This place is a simple storefront in the working class meets up and coming side of Astoria and you’re mistaken if you’re looking for white table cloths. There are some fun outdoor courtyard-ish tables, but this is low key and it’s real New York. Everyone there is. The food is just thoughtfully comforting.
I’m talking wraps and brioche rolls filled with fried, spicy, sweet or all the above goodness, with New York nodding names, like the illmatic, with two eggs, cheddar, sausage, crumbled hash brown, candied jalapeño, maple chipotle, secret sauce on brioche bun.
A nod to the beloved Parm did not disappoint either, with parm crusted chicken cutlet dunked in tomato gravy, topped with mozzarella, fried spicy Italian long hots, fried Jimmy Nardello peppers, Chicago giardiniera on semolina.
The Experience Was Everything
We’ll get more onto the food in a bit, but I’ve gotta say in a world of increasingly dismal service industry standards, this experience was just as important as the food. Finding James Avatar, the long time forward face of the place was everything and made for the most “New York” meal I’ve had in ages.
He was like the best version of “cousin” from the bear, a New York version, with a different complexion. It felt like that kind of interaction and it brought joy. There was New York tempo and matter-of-factness but laced with earnest care and warmth.
Having fun with customers was everything, it seemed. Jokes flew off the tongue with authority and a delivery typically reserved for comedy legends. And then, he yelled back into the kitchen at impressive decibel levels to fire off orders. Yes, chef.
My friend and I went home and repeated at least four of the jokes James told to friends who have now committed to going too. But better yet, James took care of each guest with a personal touch like you were in the best home kitchen. “Nah, my brother, that’s a good order but this one is even better” as he pointed to the menu.
He guided us through the epic winding roads of breakfast burritos, Oreo french toast balls and Tater Tots topped with Cheddar, Hot Honey, Marinated Ribeye, Gochujang Aioli, Ranch, Chives, and Everything Bagel Seasoning. The menu is an extensive list of optimal ways to make a hangover disappear.
If you happen to be near Astoria or LaGuardia, or en route to or from, ditch the bull$#!t food in the terminal and stop here. It’s quick, incredible and a delight in every way. Even if you’re not, I’d get on the subway for another bite of this gem.
